when im mig welding I almost always really don't pulse, stitch, or push the weld.
-I try not to stitch weld as you commonly aren't getting the penetration you desire
-I do not push from right to left due to the fact its harder to get penetration because the weld is being sent away from the molten puddle un like the pulling method where by your wire is pushing in to the molten puddle furthermore the mig weld is allot harder to manipulate and make the weld look suitable.
The main mig welding method i personally use is kind of different than some other techniques for example "C" or "e" despite the fact that i actually do makes use of the "e" in certain situations The method i use is a back and fourth movement whilst pulling left to right ( if you're a lefty the contrary applies) with the nozzle of the gun with a forty five degree position. i target the wire in the center of the joint the spot where the 2 joints meet.
I will utilize a "e" formation if there is a thicker piece of steel on one side compared to the other in that instance i will push the weld in the "e" configuration in direction of the thicker part.
Lets start with the Hand placement
- keep the trigger part of the gun with your right hand having the ability to swivel your wrist ( for example the throttle of a motorbike)
- your gonna want to lay the actual bend of the gun in the middle of your pointer finger and thumb with the top of your hand resting on the bench.
- your left hand will be the point for your gun to be able to pivot upon and to secure the nozzle.
-your right hand is going to be the part that twists to produce the backward and forward movements that produces the mig weld beads.
- Also you are gonna need to loosen up your arms and hands to aid you to glide your left hand across the bench to follow along with the weld along the joint.
hand speed
I recall while i was initially beginning out i was basically always mig welding like i was in a hurry however , you don't want to. you need to relax your grasp ( your gun isn't really going anyplace)
-when you begin the weld, loosen up!! do a nice small loop to close off the end of the joint
- after that pull to the right within half in . or less in a somewhat fast movement
- Then push the puddle returning over what weld i recently laid down in a reduced pace and watch the bead create a nice spherical puddle
- when i push back i view the space of the bead in front and try and match the stoping spot of the puddle i did previously. that is how i know how much i want to push back the puddle.
-I try not to stitch weld as you commonly aren't getting the penetration you desire
-I do not push from right to left due to the fact its harder to get penetration because the weld is being sent away from the molten puddle un like the pulling method where by your wire is pushing in to the molten puddle furthermore the mig weld is allot harder to manipulate and make the weld look suitable.
The main mig welding method i personally use is kind of different than some other techniques for example "C" or "e" despite the fact that i actually do makes use of the "e" in certain situations The method i use is a back and fourth movement whilst pulling left to right ( if you're a lefty the contrary applies) with the nozzle of the gun with a forty five degree position. i target the wire in the center of the joint the spot where the 2 joints meet.
I will utilize a "e" formation if there is a thicker piece of steel on one side compared to the other in that instance i will push the weld in the "e" configuration in direction of the thicker part.
Lets start with the Hand placement
- keep the trigger part of the gun with your right hand having the ability to swivel your wrist ( for example the throttle of a motorbike)
- your gonna want to lay the actual bend of the gun in the middle of your pointer finger and thumb with the top of your hand resting on the bench.
- your left hand will be the point for your gun to be able to pivot upon and to secure the nozzle.
-your right hand is going to be the part that twists to produce the backward and forward movements that produces the mig weld beads.
- Also you are gonna need to loosen up your arms and hands to aid you to glide your left hand across the bench to follow along with the weld along the joint.
hand speed
I recall while i was initially beginning out i was basically always mig welding like i was in a hurry however , you don't want to. you need to relax your grasp ( your gun isn't really going anyplace)
-when you begin the weld, loosen up!! do a nice small loop to close off the end of the joint
- after that pull to the right within half in . or less in a somewhat fast movement
- Then push the puddle returning over what weld i recently laid down in a reduced pace and watch the bead create a nice spherical puddle
- when i push back i view the space of the bead in front and try and match the stoping spot of the puddle i did previously. that is how i know how much i want to push back the puddle.
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